As the title says, this job took way longer than I expected. The working bits have been running and testing, under an early test body, for several weeks now, but finishing the body (even to my skills-limited standard) has taken more time than I anticipated.
I probably have only myself to blame for this because of the number of fiddly detail parts that I built into this kit. I could have printed the parts that go in the opening in the bonnet (hood in the USA) as part of the main body. But no, I decided to print the "box" separately so I could easily paint it aluminium colour. And, of course, I printed the coolant pipes separately in black so I didn't need to paint them at all. Not really thinking about how unbelievably fiddly all this was going to be to attach to the (painted and decalled) main body. Likewise with the exhaust pipes and the little black pieces that close off the roof vents. They weren't quite as bad, but still fiddly. and time consuming. Maybe I should try printing a version with all of those pieces attached. It would be a bit more fiddly to paint though.
I printed the driving lights and headlights in translucent filament and they weren't too difficult to attach at the back of their respective tunnels (so far back that you really don't see them unless you specifically look for them). But then I came to the vac-formed headlight covers. Wow! These need a whole new word to express the amount of fiddling required to glue them in place. I ended up printing four versions of moulds trying to arrive at a vac-formed shape and size that I could convince to cooperate. But, finally, I got the headlights done. I'm still in two minds about whether I'll persevere with the driving light covers which are about half the size of the headlight covers. So far I've convinced myself that the first front-on racing crash would dislodge them. I think I'll probably keep telling myself that.
I am using resin cast wire wheel inserts from John Warren (Munter) in New Zealand. I have nearly run out of these, hence the fronts and rears are different. I'll order more (like the rears) from John and remedy that later. Maybe.
An easier option would be to use Pendles' or BRM wheels with photo-etched wire inserts. I used BRM wheels in the past until I was roundly scolded by Al Penrose (BWA for those who remember). He correctly pointed out that, back in the day, spokes were more usually painted and not (photo-etched) shiny. He converted me. The fact that I can adapt the cast inserts to most wheels with printed spacers is a big plus for me. Plus this is a much less expensive way to go.
Anyway..... I have to say that, from three feet away (1 metre for those who can't speak Imperial), this car is looking pretty damn good. I know I'm biased, but love the shape.
And, as a racing slot car, it is showing great potential with both chassis/motor options. Super easy to drive at the limit.
I'll do another blog soon to talk about the design thinking behind each of the two chassis.
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Awesome job Peter! Love your work. Always pushing the envelope in search of making life easier...I think.